The Art of Roseberry: Referencing Schiaparelli’s Past
When it comes to Daniel Roseberry’s ravishing vision for Schiaparelli, the ready-to-wear line isn’t ordinary nor simple, but rather a more accessible version of Haute Couture. Since his debut at the legacy French Maison, he has consistently taken inspiration from the archives and translated Elsa Schiaparelli’s ideas into his own. On this note, for the spring 2023 collection, the Texas-born designer took inspiration from his previous trip to Il Pellicano, an Italian resort known for luxury, and presented a collection that focused on details, craftsmanship, and wearable yet sophisticated garments.
Image: Courtesy of Schiaparelli
From the draped column dresses and blouses, denim jackets embroidered with a sequined sun, and the sparkling details that resemble sand stuck on the fabric to the allusion to ants climbing on a red skirt. The looks were witty and dramatic but in a much toned-down way than Roseberry’s previous works. Gold and a celebration of human form remain a central theme throughout the collection, adding that surreal extra touch.
As for the references, the back of a white button shirt was embroidered with gold sunlike rays, in tribute to a veil that Elsa Schiaparelli designed in 1935 while the denim jacket embroidered with a sequined sun was inspired by the “Phoebus” shocking pink cape from the 1938 fall haute couture collection entitled “Zodiac”.
There was also a reference to a jacket Elsa Schiaparelli made in collaboration with Jean Cocteau in 1937 and her hand-sewn gilt coat from 1938. However, some things are more surprising at a second glance such as the mouth necklace that takes inspiration from the one Claude Lalanne created in 1977.
