The Flattery of Imitation - Peter Hawkings Takes On Tom Ford
They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery and that people replicate as a form of praise. In many ways, emulation is at the core of the fashion industry. To truly appreciate the existence of trend cycles, aesthetics and silhouettes, one must recognise that almost nothing is faithfully unique within this sartorial sphere. Westwood borrowed stylistic notions from the 18th century regularly, as did Christian Dior when he developed the esteemed ‘New Look’ of 1947. The results of that archival innovation, however, could not have been more different. Imitation does not necessarily lead to pure counterfeits…’ necessarily’.
Lauded as one of the industry’s most successful tenures, Tom Ford’s stint at Gucci grabbed a house on the verge of insolvency and transformed it into a $10 billion contemporary fashion empire by the time of his departure in 2004. Throughout the course of his stay, Ford prioritised sensuality, and all-out sexiness harking back to the glory days of Halston for a substantial sprinkle of 1970s nostalgia. In his delicate emulation of one of fashion’s finest, Ford recognised that 20 years on sensibilities in the social climate had, quite rightly, transformed. Notions from the 1970s (silk shirts, velvet suits, figure-skimming gowns) were modernised in an approach which honoured, recognised and progressed. After all, one cannot bask in the past for too long if one wishes to create the works of the future. Having uncovered his flair, Ford relocated his artistic endeavours to his eponymous house, seeking ever further to push the boundaries of passion and eroticism.
Tom Ford SS24 by Hawkings
Image: Daniele Oberrauch
Gucci AW96 by Tom Ford
The Tom Ford brand was subsequently purchased by Estée Lauder in November 2022, with Tom Ford the creative director relinquishing his triumphant position in April of this year.
In the backdrop of magnificent Milan, Tom Ford’s replacement, Peter Hawkings, debuted his chief collection. Hawkings and Ford held a prior working relationship, with Hawkings handling menswear from London, setting the new creative director up for his new intimidating position. “Your attention to detail is fantastic, and I’m sure it’s gonna be super glamorous,” Ford said to Hawkings prior to his presentation. Glamorous it sure was, and the attention to detail was glaring. Perhaps, too glaring. With every glance, one could hear the murmuring echo of Ford’s illustrious Gucci term. Ford’s AW96 collection was seemingly splattered upon Hawkings’ inspiration boards, with Look 2 taking the greatest resemblance. Akin to his successor, Hawkings sought to uphold the house’s integral artistic codes lathering chic models in two-piece suits (many of which were either produced in velvet or featuring velvet accenting) sleek long-line gowns that arouse and acres of alluring gold accessories.
While a visual treat and a collection with the promise of great profit, Hawkings offered nothing new. Tom Ford sought ingenuity from the likes of Halston and generated his own image. Peter Hawkings has taken inspiration from Tom Ford and failed to evolve. Hawkings imitated with success and innovated with very little.
