If there’s one thing that Thom Browne will bring to a fashion week, it’s a heightened sense of unbridled joyful expression. His penchant for tailored chaos was as evident as ever at his Spring 2023 ready-to-wear collection show at Paris Fashion Week this morning.

While some brands have seemed to draw away from glamour ideals in their designs (perhaps a knock-on impact from the last two years?), Browne pulled together a collection that screams “Don’t you dare not see me!”. Taking up space is a-okay, with the first 22 looks made up of oversized, full-length overcoats in a glorious formation of colours. These large looks make way for more sizeable designs reminiscent of 1950s kitsch poodle skirts. While this could have easily looked comical, Browne’s innate talents in tailoring maintained a proper, defined and almost haute couture atmosphere.

As the silhouettes became slimmer, Browne turned to pattern and colour. During a fashion month used for showing Spring collections, there has been an alarming lack of light hues and tones among many significant designers and Browne is the refreshing antidote. While the styling may make one feel as if the individual items are somewhat too outlandish for everyday wear, the opposite is true. Who doesn’t want to wear an oversized blazer with a blue polka dot pattern?

To bring his collection to a delightful close, Browne took on motifs of his world-famous menswear with a classic trouser and shirt combo as well as Bella Hadid in a punk-meets-1930s-meets-goth-meets-Elizabethan ensemble which sounds ridiculous and yet somehow works! All in all, a great show to zap the audience with some energy as we all grow tired of fashion month.

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