The Scandinavian style is as popular as it has ever been, especially with the fruitful rise of the Matilda Djerf aesthetic on social media. With its minimal silhouettes in neutrals with delightful pops of colour, many look to Scandi fashion as inspiration in their often busy lives where put together but unfussy reigns supreme. This Copenhagen Fashion Week proved to us, once again, that this is the fashion week to keep an eye on promising emerging designers, more so than other mainstream weeks.

With fashion month kicking off in less than a month, Copenhagens Spring/Summer 2023 collections have provided a refreshing, and preparatory, view into what we can perhaps expect from collections this September.

Berner Kühl Spring 2023. Image: Andrea Adriani

CPHFW started as it meant to go on with the Berner Kühl show with a collection “...about preservation; doing something that’s super-long-lasting,” The menswear collection which was made up of tones of white, black beige and forest green put elevated basics first. The timeless designs modelled off classic silhouettes and pieces everyone would recognise - white shirts, trench coats etc.- demonstrated that minimal is in and more than that, it’s stylish.

The Garment Spring 2023. Image: Andrea Adriani

Sticking with elevated classics was The Garment, a fun and flirty brand who are somewhat reminiscent of The Row. From crochet crop tops and a shirred mini dress to silky maxi dresses and waistcoats, the 1990s were a clear inspiration and yet all pieces felt modern. While nothing new, all pieces felt expensive.

(Di)vision Spring 2023. Image: Andrea Adriani

Saying that all Scandi style is minimal and sleek, of course, does these great brands a disservice. In fact, the Scandi style is incredibly diverse and brands like (Di)vision show this impeccably. Unprocessed with a natural feel, the outside evening setting helped bring the garments to life. The use of crochets, patchwork, paisley and fur (fake, obviously) harked back to the hippie days of the 1970s.

Holzweiler Spring 2023. Image: Andrea Adriani

The Holzweiler Spring 2023 collection, entitled In Motion, had mostly a white or cream colour palette but interspersed where shades of turquoise and bright greens which uplifted the entire show. Perhaps aided by the hot air balloons that were suspended above the runway catwalk. The use of crochet and drawstring only furthered this delightful aesthetic.

Helmsteadt Spring 2023. Image: Andrea Adriani

Helmstedt’s Spring 2023 collection felt like a fairytale, a darling concoction of bright tones, botanical prints and tree-like accessories. Steering clear of profiting off current popular trends, Helmstedt has pathed its own magical way.

It felt like almost every popular fashion influencer, Emma Chamberlain included, were at the Ganni show, but for good reason! Ganni has exploded in popularity since the pandemic becoming one of the cool it-girl brands. With relatively simplistic silhouettes, Ganni has often played with bold pops of colour cementing themselves as a brand for those who straddle both lines - minimal yet exciting. One can definitively expect to see items of this collection all over TikTok.

Ending where we began, By Malene Birger stuck with the classic Scandi style we often imagine - fresh and neutral with sophisticated silhouettes. The collection as a whole feels luxurious and elegant, bolstered by the use of silks. The use of raw edges and fringing reminds us that this wonderful area of the world is also playful.