Portrait of Madame X (1884) is perhaps John Singer Sargent's most famous work of art, beloved by art lovers across the globe. Mysterious and elegant all at once, the figure of the socialite Virginie Amélie Avegno Gautreau, known for her beauty, is known and referenced by many. Universally acknowledged as a study of opposition, this well-loved painting pays homage to Gautreau’s astounding beauty. The long black gown contrasted so strikingly against the paleness of her skin and simplistic hairstyle. Whilst we may be infatuated with this attractive portrait today, back in 1884 it cause a monumental stir, one which would lead to Sargent fleeing France and Gautreau’s reputation being in tatters.

Madame X by John Singer Sargent
*Courtesy of the Met Museum*

Virginie Amélie Avegno Gautreau was an American born socialite who moved to Paris as a child in around 1867. As she grew older she quickly became known for her beautifully striking features of dark hair and pale skin. She was known to use lavender coloured body and face powder to enhance her complexion as well as use henna to dye her hair! Think of her as a late Victorian Bella Hadid. Her beauty, which was considered unconventional, led to multiple artists requesting to paint her portrait but every time she would refuse. We do not know how Gautreau and Sargent were introduced to one another, but we are aware of Sargent’s fascination with her. He wrote to a friend, “I have a great desire to paint her portrait and have reason to think she would allow it and is waiting for someone to propose this homage to her beauty. If you are 'bien avec elle' and will see her in Paris, you might tell her I am a man of prodigious talent. “

We can not know her exact reasoning, but possibly to heighten her social status in France, Gautreau agreed to have Sargent paint her in February 1883. Although she may have been handsome to look at, she was the most useful subject, making the whole process a bit of a faff. After all, she was busy with her constant social appearances! Sargent kept trying but was struggling to quite hit the nail on its head but after making around 30 preparatory sketches, the piece was finally completed in 1884. The final composition, as we know it today, shows Gautreau in a black plunging dress with golden straps with one hand resting on a small round table, and the other clutching a black fan.

Left: The original Madame X. Right: Photograph of Sargent’s studio with the adjusted version.
*Courtesy of the Met Museum*

Both Gautreau and Sargent were hopeful that the finished product would be enjoyed by those in Paris, however, what happened was the complete and utter opposite. The portrait was unveiled at the Salon in 1884 under the title ‘Portrait Of Mme xxx’, and the Parisians that saw it were not only shocked but they were also scandalised! The original piece was slightly different than today’s, with one of Gautreau’s golden dress straps falling off her shoulder. Unsurprisingly, to a Victorian audience, this was seen as overtly sexual and provocative and more than that, it was seen as cheap. For some honestly quite silly reason, Sargent had tried to hide the identity of his Madame X, but of course, Gautreau was swiftly identified. She already had a reputation as a bit of an adulteress, and all this did was stoke the fire. It was a disastrous flop. In a review of the 1884 Salon, the Times wrote, "Sargent is below his usual standard this year… The pose of the figure is absurd, and the bluish coloring atrocious. The features are so exaggerated that the natural delicacy of outline is entirely lost." Soon thereafter, Sargent fled France and began to live in London permanently and adjusted the loose strap of the gown to sit upright on Madame X’s shoulder. Gautreau had been humiliated.

The dress worn by Gautreau in the portrait would not seem out of place on a 2022 red carpet, but for 1880s France, it was far too ahead of its time. Although certain aspects of it were not unfamiliar to the audience such as the pointed waist bodice and narrow straps, the way it was worn with such simplicity was viewed as too revealing.

Sargent kept the artwork in his studio for over 30 years before dipping his toes into its exhibition in 1905. In 1916 Sargent sold Madame X to the Metropolitan Museum where it still remains. He simply stated of the piece, “I suppose it is the best thing I have done.”

Left: "Portrait of Mme Pierre Gaudreau" by French artist Antonio de La Gandara, 1898. Right: "Madame Gautreau," by Gustave Courtois, 1891.

Gautreau never fully recovered from the scandal and retreated from Paris society almost entirely, however, she would go on to have two other portraits done of her in the 1890s. While both are more conservative than Sargent’s they do have beautiful little nods to the original. She may have been ridiculed, but the last laugh is on her. Madame X is one of the most well-known figures in the art world.