Yet another spectacular London Fashion Week has been and gone, leaving in its wake a multitude of new trends and popular brands. Richard Quinn bought the runway bride back to the mainstream, Burberry showed that Daniel Lee is committed to bringing quintessential ‘British-ness’ back to the much-beloved brand, Dilara Findikoglu stunned (and shocked) the London audience with her final look made up of 200 Victorian knives and Simone Rocha proved that ribbon bows can take any makeup look to the next level!

However, with fashion month comprised of four back-to-back weeks of chaos and countless runway shows, presentations and parties, it can be easy to miss out on the more underground collections. While it’s easy to find information about the big names, here is a look at some of the most promising collections from the past London Fashion Week that may just pique your interest.

GYOUREE KIM

Korean-born Gyouree Kim is already designing costumes for Sam Smith music videos and with over five years of technical garment-making experience to her name, Gyouree Kim is one to watch over the next coming years. Inspired by historical silhouettes and architecture, all of her designs have a coherent focus on structure, with most of her ensembles featuring a form of corset inspired by 18th-century stays. Looking to limit waste in the production process, Gyouree Kim looks to utilise deadstock fabrics where possible.

Shown in association with Fashion Scout in Shoreditch on February 18th 2023, the show began with a model escorted onto the runway wearing a well-fitting corset and skirt created from two long pieces of neutral fabric. Introducing the rest of the collection’s impeccable designs, the model slowly rotated and, in doing so, twisted the fabric of the raw-like skirt around her legs turning the model into a column, the anchor for the following models to move around.

While it could be awkward for some designers to take ideas from historical periods and translate them for a modern audience, Gyouree Kim has proven time and time again that she is more than adept at this skill set.

INGRID KRAFTCHENKO

British/Ukrainian designer Ingrid Kraftchenko showcased her AW23 collection entitled ‘Bodymap 23 (The Sun Is Ash)’ in the depths of a derelict, unused London Underground tunnel which would turn out to be the ideal location for the featured garments. Dystopian and utilitarian, like Kraftchecnko’s previous work, leather was at the core of this troupe of red and back ensembles.

Radical and immersive, Kraftchenko’s intense runway experience featuring distressed leather skirts and coats accompanied by dramatically cut hairstyles superbly displayed her central design beliefs. Designed to create conversation and subvert, Kraftchenko, who graduated from the London College of Fashion in 2017, has and will continue to receive critical acclaim for her creations.

CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS

There is a distinct joy in being witness to the collections devised by Central Saint Martins’ graduates and the fresh batch of ideas and magical imaginations of the future generation of global talents.

For her collection ‘Heirloom’, Chie Kaya carefully repurposed and reimagined classic menswear pieces, adapting them into delightfully waist-hugging dresses as well as exchanging the evergreen beige trench coat into a handbag. Her understanding of tailoring and remodelling was on clear display. “It captures how working women purchase signature clothing items from men’s and women’s existing wardrobes and wear them by alternating, deconstructing and juxtaposing their structures as a proposition to daily and occasional wear,” read her mission statement.

Looking to technology for his groundwork, Maxime Black utilised artificial intelligence, feeding an AI system over 3000 ideas, transforming the computer-generated results into a wearable collection. An intimate insight into the future relationship between fashion design and tech.

APUJAN

On the occasion of their 10th anniversary, Apujan looked to cement their brand identity in their AW23 collection ‘The Other End of Nowhere’, exhibited on the official British Fashion Council digital schedule. Produced by Rachel Chen, the film acts as a sequel to their last collection’s digital display, imagining the world via the lens of Director of Photography Chi-Ming Lu exploring themes of romanticism and hidden desires.

Featuring symbols from the classic novel ‘Journey To The West’, the narrative of the show, and garments, are told through the use of print and silhouette. Apujan takes the viewer on a journey to the far end and back with their mythical story. From Taipei to London, the mainline collection draws together East and West, weaving together past and future with Apujan’s signature style.