Is it Accurate? Pride and Prejudice (2005)

The 2005 movie adaptation of Pride and Prejudice is a classic and many class it as the best adaptation of the Austen novel to date. I would personally argue that the BBC series is better but that's beside the point. Filled with sweeping landscapes and beautiful architecture, this film is a masterpiece in terms of its cinematography. Many have praised the film's costume design, by Jacqueline Durran, however how historically accurate is it and why were liberties taken?

Kiera Knightley as Lizzie Bennet in Pride and Prejudice (2005)

In the opening shots of the film, we are introduced to Lizzie Bennet as she wanders outside the Bennet house reading a book. From the outset, we gain an understanding of Lizzie at one with nature and this is also shown in her clothing. Wearing a brown dress that looks to be in linen, Lizzie looks relaxed and informal. I must praise the use of linen and natural fabrics here, fabrics that would have been used commonly in the Regency era. However, this dress, while not wholly historically inaccurate (the waistline could be raised higher to be really nitpicky), is perhaps earthly and adds to Lizzie’s character, I cannot help but feel it is out of place. For the film as a whole, I find that Bennet's wealth is not portrayed. While they may not be as rich as Bingley or Darcy, they are very comfortable, having a cook and several other servants. For her wealth, Lizzie would not wear dresses like this often, but in the film, it is all we ever see her in. The only time Lizzie looks like her true status is at the Netherfield ball, where she wears a gorgeous white dress in the Regency style. So, why does Jacqueline seem to constrict Lizzie to earth tones, and frankly plain gowns that do not show her status and wealth? During the Regency era, the Romantic Movement was at its peak. This was an artistic, literary and intellectual movement that originated in Europe in the late 18th century and by the early 19th century and Regency era, it was at its highest point of popularity. It emphasised nature, emotion, individualism and was a rebuttal to the industrial revolution. Lizzie, being a young lady of the day would have most likely been enthralled in the Romantic works of Byron and Keats and looked to the natural world for guidance and happiness.

Fashion plate from 1816 showing Regency dress

Let’s take a look at the use of hair and makeup in this Austen classic. Praise must be given to the films’ makeup department who kept each and every look natural and period-appropriate, this can be quite rare in period pieces with Hollywood loving a modern makeup look with a period costume. Seriously, what is up with that? Completely ruins it. I can not, however, say the same for the hair department. While it is evident that inspiration from the Regency era has been taken, most of the hairstyles shown could easily be modern. Regency women adored curly side fringe pieces, either made from curling their own hair or by using hairpieces. Pretty much any woman of polite society would have worn her hair in this style, and yet there is not one single example of this throughout the entire film. The BBC series showed their Bennet girls wearing these ridiculous hairpieces and it added to the show tenfold, bringing a sense of authenticity.

Portrait of Mary Anne Bloxam, by Thomas Lawrence c.1824

I would also like to mention Caroline Bingley’s hair. When Lizzie goes to Netherfield for the first time to see the unwell Jane, Caroline wears a pretty accurate example of a Regency dress, but she wears her hair in an 18th century style, the likes seen on portraits of Georgiana Cavendish. Not only was this hairstyle completely out of fashion by the Regency period, but Caroline would also have known that. Caroline Bingley is a woman of high society, who follows trends and prides herself on always wearing what is de rigueur, she would not have been seen dead wearing such an old fashioned style, especially not styled with a trendy dress!

Kelly Reilly as Caroline in Bingley in Pride and Prejudice (2005)

Let’s stick with Caroline and discuss her clothing a little bit further. We first meet Caroline at the Meryton Townhall ball, where she again wears her hair in an 18th-century style (please, just why?) and is dressed in a white dress of thin almost sheer fabric. Her shoulders are visible, with the sleeves of her dress flopping down, and while it may have a very era-appropriate empire waistline, the fact that you can clearly see a corset under her dress while she walks is frankly unforgivable. A CORSET! This is the early 19th century, women are still wearing stays. Corsets the likes visible under Caroline’s dress wouldn’t be invented for at least 20 years. Can you tell this has riled me up? And again at the Netherfield ball, Caroline wears another white dress with inappropriate sleeves. She is practically wearing spaghetti straps, making it obvious that she could not be wearing a shift or pair of stays underneath. While her hair is still not necessarily Regency, it’s not as 18th century so at least it has that going for it? Maybe? 

Kelly Reilly as Caroline Bingley in Pride and Prejudice (2005)

Is there actually anything accurate in this film? Yes, even if it does seem like I’m tearing this film apart. Mrs Bennet is a woman stuck in her ways and stuck in the past, so it makes perfect sense for her to wear typical 18th-century gowns. The same goes for Lady Catherine and her sack-back gown.

Brenda Blethyn as Mrs Bennet in Pride and Prejudice (2005)

The use of 18th-century clothing in this film (apart from Caroline’s hair) really adds value. At the Meryton ball, we see a variety of fashionable Regency clothing and quite a few young ladies still wearing late 18th-century garb. This does an excellent job of showing the different wealth of income of the Meryton population, those in Regency dress like the Bennets have more money than those still holding onto old trends. Wealth and status are key themes at the heart of Pride and Prejudice, and this is an excellent way of signalling this. This is also probably why Lizzie wears such a plain dress at the Meryton ball, to emphasise the stark difference between herself and Darcy. Even if it does make her look completely out of place with her sisters who are all dressed immaculately.   

So, to wrap up is the 2005 film adaptation of Pride and Prejudice a good film? Yes, the acting is strong and the cinematography takes my breath away. The focus of this version is certainly on the romance between Darcy and Lizzie and builds the tension phenomenally. Is it, however, accurate in terms of its costume design and hair and makeup? No, while it has some redeeming qualities I find the liberties taken to be too distracting. For the average viewer, this will most likely not affect them, and I know many people adore the costumes in this film. It may just be because I’m nitpicky and pedantic (Mary and I have a lot in common it seems), but I simply cannot love this film as much as I would like to.