Dior Has A Couture Problem
Haute couture fashion week was kicked off in monumental style by Schiaparelli earlier today, alighting the internet in a blaze of love and attention for the brand. A collection with masterful tailoring, Doja Cat smothered in crystals and animal heads that have caused quite the stir is a tough act to follow. Alas, this was the role of Dior and Maria Grazia Chiuri.
Under Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior has strayed away from the extravagant designs of Galliano and sought out a more commercial route. Economically, this has worked in the brand’s favour and no one can deny the commerciality of this most beloved and well-respected French fashion house. Their latest couture collection made this abundantly clear.
Dior SS23.
Filippo Fior.
Dior Pre-Fall 23.
The brand met praise with its Pre-Fall 2023 and Spring 2023 collections of recent months, with many noticing a freshness in the brand’s directions from Chiuri. Each collection, showing more colour, pattern and intriguing silhouettes felt inspired and also inspiring. Perhaps it is because of these two collections that many went into the couture SS23 runway with anticipation and hope, only to come out feeling flat and deflated.
Dior Couture SS23.
Isidore Montag.
Dior Couture SS23.
Isidore Montag.
While there were no standout mistakes or atrocities to speak of, it is clear that Dior has a couture problem. For what is an abnormally large collection, particularly for couture, there were an alarming amount of ensembles that would seem better placed on a ready-to-wear catwalk or simply on the rack of any Dior flagship store. The tailoring is always supreme, and the nods to Dior’s revolutionary ‘New Look’ plentiful, however, there was rarely a spark of joy. Stuck between elegant velvet gowns and many a sequined and sparking dress and two-piece (all of which seem inspired by the 20s and 30s) were myriads of skirt suits and coats in dark grey and black tones. Remove these plainer pieces and what are you left with? A delightfully classic and calm couture collection worthy of a mighty price tag.
One can only question how Maria Grazia Chiuri is capable of creating some truly marvellous looks worthy of couture and marketable ready-to-wear pieces and seemingly place them in the wrong collections.
