Daniel Roseberry Works Magic With Schiaparelli’s First RTW Runway
Daniel Roseberry is no stranger to a runway show, excelling season on season with his Schiaparelli Haute Couture collections, most recently causing quite the kerfuffle with a variety of animal-inspired gowns. Commended for both his couture and ready-to-wear collections at the luxury fashion house which was revived back in 2014, Schiaparelli had never staged a prêt-à-porter runway show. That was until yesterday at Paris Fashion Week.
Rarely putting a step wrong, Roseberry has cemented his status as one of the top designers currently on the circuit. Founded in the 1930s, Schiaparelli under Elsa never once created RTW items, keeping focus squarely on the most opulent and rich clientele who could afford true couture garments. It makes one wonder what Elsa would have made of her namesake brand taking more accessible (if you have the money still, of course) garb onto the precious catwalk. It would seem, she would’ve had nothing to fear.
“The higher you go in the stratosphere of luxury, the more basic it feels”, stated the Texan-born designer ahead of the appearance of the collection.
Roseberry’s Fall Winter 2023 collection can best be described as wearable art. Golden eyes, nose and mouth adorning a black velvet strapless gown and black leather corset featuring confident golden buckles and a dainty belly button detail once again nod to Elsa’s fascination with marrying anatomy and fashion. As with any Roseberry collection, that is not where his references to the house’s matriarch concluded. Known to appreciate a turban or two, Roseberry delicately incorporated the ever-charming headpieces into numerous ensembles, as well as including embroidery similar to a Schiaparelli piece worn by Marlene Dietrich in 1937. You can learn more about Schiaparelli items past and present on Instagram via The Schiaparelli Archive.
Schiaparelli FW23
Isiodore Montag
Schiaparelli FW23
Isiodore Montag
Elevated, classic and far from dull, Roseberry manages to take fabrics and silhouettes that, on their own, could verge on simplistic and transforms them into artworks that are far from boring. And yet, they are all realistically wearable, from your stylish grandmother in her 80s to your chic mother in her 50s down to your fashion-forward sisters in their 20s. It is not often that a creative director can mould a brand to be admired by all, however, Roseberry may just have a sprinkle of magic in his step that makes it all possible.
