An Interview with Oli The Label - Handmade Wrap Dresses
We once thought that handmade and made to order was disappearing alongside our high streets, but something miraculous is taking place. As more and more people focus on climate change and sustainability, there is a growing desire for our clothes to be made in a slower fashion. The handmade garment is back on people’s minds, giving brands like Oli The Label a chance to make it once more in this competitive industry. We spoke with Oli The Label founder and designer Olivia Hulme all about her small businesses and why sustainable fashion is so important.
Tell me in a couple of sentences what Oli is?
A small made to order label - handmade wrap dresses made from hand-sourced fabrics.
Why did you create your brand?
I wanted to make a dress that could be worn for any occasion, from day to night. For me the wrap dress has that fluidity, it can be easily worn as dressy or as casual as you like, it really flatters all shapes and sizes. I spent a lot of time in my job designing clothes for actors on big productions and really felt an urge to put my design skills into something that was more personal for me to create.
Did you have a background in fashion & design, or is this a new venture for you?
I studied costume at Edinburgh College of Art which led to working in costume design for film and tv. I love the process of sourcing fabrics, designing and making in a resourceful way, usually on a shoestring budget and quick turnaround! My mum and grandma are also both very practical and creative when it comes to making textiles - my interest in fashion and making clothes definitely originated from them.
How did you come up with the design for the classic Oli wrap dress?
I felt a little rusty with my pattern cutting skills, so enrolled in classes at Morley College in London - I started with drafting a classic kimono shape which developed into the ‘Oli’ style that’s the signature wrap dress of the label. The ‘Ida’ style is a more recent design of the Oli dress, it has big bouncy puff sleeves which add a bit more drama. These are the two staple designs that are made from the end of roll fabrics like silk and Irish linen.
How long does it take for you to create each garment?
It takes between 2-3 weeks to make a wrap dress. I’ve started to take colour and fabric requests which is a really nice way to make the dresses feel more unique for people. I started off with cutting and making all the dresses, now I have a seamstress friend that helps me make them locally in Hackney.
How would you describe your pieces in just three words?
Versatile, hand-made, considered.
Each design has a limited stock, why was this so important to you?
It is mainly due to how I source the fabrics. Often I find the perfect silk or linen, but there is only enough to make one or two dresses in that style due to them being the end of roll fabrics. However, I feel this makes each dress one of a kind - you know when buying an Oli dress it is a limited piece to own and only you or one other person will also own that particular dress!
What do you believe bigger brands can be doing themselves to help create a more sustainable fashion industry?
I think now more than ever there is a demand for bigger brands to be really transparent with their sustainable process and to communicate this to customers.
Anything from removing unnecessary packaging, cutting down collections or using organic or recycled materials are ways big brands could improve.
And finally, what does fashion mean to you?
To me, it's about making yourself feel good! Wearing an outfit you feel comfortable and confident in can completely turn your mood around and make you feel like your best self.
