When you think of Cruella De Vil you probably picture black and white fur and not much more, after all this is the image we have been given of this puppy-killing villain for decades, but Disney’s new, reimagined Cruella was anything but. Cruella costume designer Jenny Beavan used her ingenious costume designs to take Cruella De Vil from evil old hag to vibrant, exhilarating punk rocker, and we love it!

Cruella is the origin story of the supervillain, played to perfection by Emma Stone, and follows her journey as a struggling up and coming fashion designer in the 1970s. As an aspiring designer, Cruella develops her style to be a weapon against her nemesis Baroness Von Hellman (Emma Thomspon.), and as the film progresses her ensembles become more and more outlandish.

In an interview with Vogue, Jenny Beavan speaks of some of her 1970s inspirations:

“I was there! I was more into theatre than fashion at the time – set design, scene painting. But, I do remember the things I wore, even though they weren’t that exciting. I couldn’t afford Vivienne Westwood and even Biba was a bit out of my price range. So, having read the script, I made a list of what each character needs and then started printing out images. In terms of references, we had masses including Westwood, [German singer] Nina Hagen, [fashion label] Bodymap and Alexander McQueen.”

— Jenny Beavan

Photo: Laurie Sparham/© 2021 Disney Enterprises Inc.

Her inspirations are clearly evident in the costume designs, in fact, some could be straight up mistaken for Westwood or McQueen. One of the stand out looks from the film, one featured in the trailer, is the red dress revealed by Cruella dropping a lit flame, setting the white cape she wore on top ablaze. Quite the entrance! The striking red shade and trumpet skirt is reminiscent of Charles James’ ‘Tree’ gown from 1955.

The garbage truck dress is exactly what would happen if Westwood and McQueen had a baby, with the corseted bodice a staple of Westwood design and extravagant and political themes dominating themes at McQueen. The 40-foot long train just adds to the drama!

Of course, no Cruella De Vil story would be complete without a dalmatian, although thankfully there are no doggy murders in this film! The black and white polka dot coat sports a subtle yet effective asymmetrical skirt and when paired with the leather buckles it creates the perfect punk rock look.

The black floor-length, v neck gown with tailored cape worn by Cruella, formerly Estella, to the charity gala near the conclusion of the film is telling. This is a woman who has grown to be sophisticated and calculated, she doesn’t need to rely on over the top gowns to have control and power. She is the power.